Installing outside downlights


















You will need to run the appropriate cable from the switch or ceiling rose to the first light, and then cable will be run on to the next light and so on until the last light in the circuit.

For more information about how to wire the lights see our project on wiring lighting circuits. Use a connector chocbox to connect the wiring for the lights as this is generally the easiest way to connect cables. At this point you will have the connected downlights hanging from the ceiling.

All the remains is insert the light into place. Generally there are springs on the side of the light unit which is going to be recessed into the ceiling.

Squeeze these in so that the light can be pushed up into the hole that you have cut out. As the light slides into the hole, the wire catches will catch on the ceiling and force out the springs so that they push down on the upper side of the ceiling boards holding the light unit in place.

There are a number of things to consider when selecting downlights. It used to be popular to use 12 V lights in kitchens and bathrooms because they offered a better light and also had the benefit of being lower voltage, however they need a transformer to step the voltage down which will get hot so needs to be ventilated. With the advent of LED lights, there is no need to go for 12 volt lights as LEDs come in all the different light intensities and colours you could want and have dimmable versions, so there is no real benefit to using 12 Volt anymore.

It is less complicated to simply stick with Volt. They also get hot so consideration needs to be given to ventilation. They are a little more expensive, but well worth the extra cost. For us it is LEDs everytime. As we mentioned above, the ceiling is an important fire barrier to slow the spread of a fire to upper floors.

Peppering this with holes will not help, so you should fill these holes with fire rated lights and in many cases the regulations will ensure you have to — see more information in the Building Regulations Approved Document B all about fire safety. You must consider the safety zones in bathroom where the lights are going to be fitted which you can find all about here as you will need to use IP rated lights in these zones. You need to ensure that you are using the right IP rated light in the zone you are planning to have the lights fitted.

There are acoustic rated downlights which you can consider using if there is a problem with noise from the floor above. Integrated downlights are lights where the blub is fitted inside them and cannot be removed — integrated. Because LED bulbs have such a long life it is considered that they will outlast the life of the lightitself, or at least provide sufficient life. With standard downlighters you can change the bulb as normal.

Which offer more flexibility should you need to, or if you want to change to a different tone light. The big danger is that if one light fails and you cannot get a matching replacement, if the model has been discontinued for example which might well happen in the long life of these lights , then you have to replace the whole lot if you want them to match. Fitting, replacing or adding downlighters to your ceiling is a job that can easily be done yourself.

All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology. Find a tradesman now! We love feedback on our DIY tutorials it helps us to make them the best they possibly can be so if you have any comments you would like to share with us, click the button below and let us know. Skip to primary navigation Skip to main content Skip to primary sidebar Skip to footer Main navigation.

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Set the light down so the bulb is on the bottom and the part that would be inside your ceiling points up. Use a tape measure to find the diameter of the light so you know how large the hole needs to be. A hole saw has a ring-shaped blade that connects to the end of your drill. Opt for a blade that has carbide or diamond grits to cut the cleanest hole. Rotate the chuck, which is the front part where you attach the bit, counterclockwise to loosen it. Slide the center bit of the hole saw into the chuck so the blades face out.

Turn the chuck clockwise to tighten the saw in place. Use a hole saw to cut through your ceiling. Pull the trigger on the drill to start the hole saw and apply light pressure so the middle bit goes into the ceiling. Pull the trigger in short bursts to work through your ceiling until you feel the saw pop out from the other side. Remove the piece of ceiling you cut from the hole saw.

Pull the saw straight out through the hole again once you break through the other side. Part 3. Turn off the power to the area at your circuit breaker. Find the electrical control box in your home, usually located in the basement, utility room, or hallway.

Locate the breaker that controls the area of your home where you plan on installing your downlights. Flip the breaker switch to the off position to cut power to that part of your home. You can either attach the lights to an existing switch or you can add a new switch on your circuit. You can also install a downlight at an existing junction box if you have one.

Just remove the existing lighting feature first. Strip the ends of the wires in your wall and on the downlight. Pull the strippers toward the end wire to remove the insulation.

Repeat the process with the wire attached to the downlight. The downlight will have 1 black or red wire, 1 white wire, and 1 uninsulated wire. Splice the matching wires with wire caps. Hold the 2 ends of the black wires together so they point straight up. Use a pair of pliers to twist the ends together so they form a good connection. Twist a wire cap clockwise onto the connection to cover the exposed ends. Repeat the process with the white and uninsulated wires.

Tighten the screws over the wires to secure them in place. Hold the spring clips against the sides of the light. Grab the spring clips from underneath and push them up so they lie flush with the base of the light. Instead, it will just push and snap into the mounting plate you attached earlier.



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