Gs300 manual swap

These transmissions have great aftermarket support, aftermarket gearsets, and parts readily available for when you ruin a synchro or break a gear tooth.

This is setup for a Lexus GS Since these cars NEVER came as a manual, you will need to do some work on your end, like add an IS clutch pedal, and relocate the ABS computer which sits right where the clutch pedal will go, and make a shift boot to fit instead of the auto shifter console.

These are then built to your specs. Choose the power level you need. You can buy from me and get real experience or try calling the big name stores with your swap tech questions and see what kind of service you get! Read more here: GR Transmission. GR We take a brand new Magnum-F Trans and give it a 1st thru 4th carbon fiber blocker ring upgrade.

Upgraded bronze Fork Pads on all forks. This is basically a GR without the cryogenic treatment and rem polishing. Read more here: GR Tranmission. We do a 1st thru 4th carbon fiber blocker ring upgrade. Then include upgraded bronze Fork Pads on all forks.

Also includes sprayer bung mod and case mods to fit Supra tunnel. Includes custom billet shift forks, bronze fork pads, and then we do a cryogenic treatment of the gearset, and then do a rem polishing of the gearset. Read more here: GRF Transmission. I recommend a 3. Console came out easily enough.

Just need to remember to unplug the traction control switches. I've ordered a handbrake from a soarer and some box section to mount it to the trans tunnel but until they get here there's not much else I can get on with. Another thing crossed off the list is the exhaust. I found a Tom's exhaust off of an imported aristo. Was delivered on friday and I spent the weekend fitting it.

However, because the old exhaust had been broken for so long and just hanging unsupported it had split part of the downpipe all the way round and left it held together by hopes and prayers. Cut the old weld out and used a piece of pipe from the old exhaust as a sleeve to bridge the gap.

Had to use a fosters can to cover up a hole too. It's holding for now so I'm happy. Love how it looks and it sounds so much better than the rotten old one. That's all for now. Winner x 1. Handbrake Install time. Been a month and finally finished the handbrake. The lever came from an SC with leather cover and all.

Started by mocking up roughly where I wanted it to sit. I want it to look as OEM as possible so no exposed cables or bracketry. I started off by ordering some 20mm box section. I've used this to help locate it to run the cable through and into the handle. Mocked it up with some string first so I knew what angle to cut the box and where to put the slot to have the cable pull straight and not rub on anything. Still using the original cable but looped back on itself and tucked behind the carpet.

After an evening of making adjustments I had the box section cut and slotted to work correctly with no interference. Now that I had the cable in I could position the handbrake where I wanted and make sure the cable ran smoothly. Used some 12mm bolts and the original mounting holes on the handbrake bracket. Then marked where they'd sit on the transmission tunnel and drilled through. Set of nylocks on the back to make sure it's not going anywhere.

Had to space out the front with some washers otherwise the centre console wouldn't fit. It's solid with hardly any flex in it so you can pull it with confidence. Now I'd heard from other posts on these cars there's a multiplier to increase the pull from the original foot pedal. Something to do with the length of the swing of the pedal.

So here's a guide to what I've done. One end is fixed to the body with the main cables to the brakes attached in the centre and then the cable into the car on the end. To get to it you have to remove the heatshield above the exhaust behind the transmission.

There's a bracket with 4 bolts in that acts as a support for it. Once you remove it you can remove the split pin that attaches on cable and unclip the other two from the mechanism. Out of the car it looks like this. So what it does is work on something like ratio. So the pedal pulls the cable 3 and the cable to the rear brakes moves 1. With a normal hand brake you don't need this reduction so I decided to make it a I drilled out the pin that holds it together as I only need the silver part to make it work.

The rear cables still clip in just fine but there's some slight tension on the cable as it hangs under its own weight. As a bonus it acts as a guide for the bolt to slide up and down so it's not all over the place. This was just a test fit hence the missing bolt. I extended the switch cable to connect to the original one. All works as it should. Going to get some leather paint to tidy up the handle but that's the handbrake done now.

In the meantime I've found a bit of rust to deal with first. Good excuse as any to buy a welder xD. Like x 1. Ciaran O Rourke New Member.