E39 basslink install

Which of the above set-ups would be best for outright sound quality, and are there any other spaces that I could consider. After looking under the rear bench, I have discounted this space as too much hassle.

I mounted a sub in the corner there, and this way it uses up minimal space, and having it in the corner is the best way to increase it's effectiveness. I'd be considering spare wheel sub then, or custom enclosures in the front doors to allow a larger 6. Drivers side - a little box for anti-freeze, scraper, WD40, spare bulbs, turtle-wax bird-poo wipes You need to be a member in order to leave a comment.

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. E39 Search In. Prev 1 2 3 Next Page 1 of 3. Recommended Posts. RoyF 0. Report post. Posted January 10, Guys, I'm looking for a bit of advice. Any pics anyone? Any install links hidden away in your Favorites? Any recommendations? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Dave Ett Posted January 11, Retset Saint I believe that there is a very thin sub that can fit between the floor and spare wheel.

The wheelwell on a touring is filled with a copmpressor for the rear suspension. Isn't the sound from way back there gonna be pants anyway if the seats are up? How about the glovebox? No one uses it for gloves these days anyway I would have thought. But they do custom work Please don't shout at me if this is a stupid idea, but what about under the rear seats? Thanks for all the links guys. If I could then fabricate a new harder tray MDF probably to cover the bay, then I'm thinking of either a firing the subs down into the well and porting the lid out through this new shelf and the top carpet floor, or Facing the subs upwards and putting some solid grills in the top carpet floor to prevent speaker damage.

Not sure about under the seats. I'll have a look when it's light again. Posted January 12, On the load floor? Hmmm, aren't you going to get 'bits' in your spreakers? SuperDave Posted January 19, Roy, I've fitted an amp behind my CD changer, running speaker level input to it from the std HeadUnit. Stereo info The HU is good quality, but underpowered. Any q's ask away Dave, So you have the high-levels from the HU through a Kenny amp, down to line-level, then into an active sub?

Posted January 20, I take the pre-out signal from the amp over to the basslink and hey presto. If you just make the holes in the deck it should allow the bass from the basslink to enter the cab. It will probably eliminate some of the trunk rattle too, because the air will be able to escape. This is only my opinion, please dont cut your car unless you are comfortable with it!

Now thats what im talkn about Matt. My rear deck looks like that minus the holes, now im considering cutting a little bigger hole in that same spot so i can install the 6. Do you think that would work? I think what i need to do is make the holes and tap into the stock amp and add an additional small watt amp or so for the midbass drivers.

Just like i tapped into the stock amp for the basslink. Does anyone forsee any pot. If you cut the holes in the deck, then your bass from the basslink will be able to enter the cabin. The problem with the basslink is its amp. It's like 4"x6". You won't get what you want with one unless you have cavalier or something :stickoutt BMW's are sealed up a bit better.

I'd rent an air nibbiler to do it. You could drill the holes with a hole saw. Just get a 3" or larger if you want bi-metal hole saw and carefully drill up from the trunk. I have seen pictures of the rear deck, and if you put the holes where they are located in the DSP cars, you should be fine. The air actually vents up through the slats in the rear deck panel. Sitting in the backseat of my car with DSP, you can really hear the bass comming out of the deck.

In fact it actually drowns out the rest of the stereo in the backseat! I have not tried this - I am just stating my opinion. Here is the pic I was looking for.

You can see where the hole is located under the rear deck panel. There is nothing above the hole wiring, etc. In the bottom of the pic you can see the vents in the deck where the air comes into the cabin. I you are careful, you might even be able to drill up from the trunk without removing the inside rear deck panel. Like I said, Just my opinion! Thats why I suggested a nibiller. You don't have a saw blade moving up you have a very shallow cutting depth.

From the pics it looks like you have at least 1" - 1. It wont shake the car, but it should be OK unless he really wants to bump! I did some playing around this weekend and I figured out how to remove the Ski bag in the pass through. My car has the fold down seats with the pass through in the middle with the silly skibag installed. If you remove the skibag and open the door on the back side of the seats the bass from your sub can come into the cabin!

Fold down the armrest and drop the leather cover over the skibag, it just velcros. At the very bottom of the frame holding the skibag in inside the car, looking in just above the armrest there are 2 plastic clips. Each of these clips has two prongs that snap into the metal frame. Take a pair of pliers and carefully pinch the two prongs together and the frame holding the ski bag will just pop out.

There is one other difficult part. There is a strap that is connected to the bag, and it is screwed to the seat behind the carpet. It is held on by plastic snap in clips, so you need something flat to get under it a pry it up.

The clips are a Biatch to get undone. I thought I was going to break them! No need to cut the car at all, now the bass from the sub can get into the car and not just rattle the trunk!

This is only applicable if you have the ski bag option on your car which most of us don't have. If you don't have it there is a sheet of metal there that must be cut in order to let the bass in the cabin.

The other option is to port it through the rear deck. You are right, but I thought I would let everyone know how easy it was to take out the ski-bag anyway. Someone else might have the fold down seats out there ; You can port through the rear deck, but if you have the DSP subwoofer box there is no room. So the pass through is a better option. I'm not sure about the 5's but on my 3 Sedan the ski bag hole was just a little plate that you could knock out with a hammer and screwdriver, no cutting with a saw was required.

Will that b a mistake if later on i decide to remove the basslink and switch over to the m audio sub install?

I have outgrown the big box with the 2 twelves in the trunk, sometimes i dont like the bass link being in the trunk either. Just cut the holes where they are located in the pics the factory locations. You will need the holes there anyway if you decide to upgrade to the M-subs. These are very efficient speakers which are designed to go with the DSP amp which only puts out about 30 watts rms to each coil 60 watts total per speaker So be careful how much amplifier you use to drive them, They dont need Watts!

If you wire each M-sub in parallel you will get a 4 Ohm load, so look for a two channel amp with a 4 ohm rating between watts per channel. I believe that they play up through the same 3" holes in the rear deck. I dont think the M5 has larger holes in the deck than the DSP cars, but I have never seen an M5 with the subs removed, so I can't say for sure.

I have seen one other person do a custom install of JL audio subs under the deck. He made a panel of wood, attached the subs to it, and then attached the panel to the deck.

It looked good, but not as clean as the factory subs. I dont remember where I saw the pics though, :. This was my easy fix. QUOTE] this is what i am thinking of doing and carpeting it so it blends in. I'm thinking about mounting my subs pointing up under the deck on the metal with cut-outs and making a box underneath it to make some sort of "enclosure" for it.

If you make an enclosure for your subs, im sure it would sound better espcecially if you use 8's or 10's, the enclosure could be pretty small. The M-subs are free air subs.

They use the trunk as the enclosure. If you do custom free air subs its important to make sure that they are sealed to the deck So the air in the trunk cant get into the cabin. The only air that should enter the cabin in this case is the air in front of the subs.

If you just hang spakers from the deck and dont seal up around them then there is no enclosure, and the sound waves from the back of the speaker cone will mix with the sound from the front of the speaker and cancel out the sound! The deck is not flat, so you cant just screw the sub to the deck. The M-subs have a plastic mounting bracket that matches the contours of the rear deck and a foam seal that keeps the air from both sides of the sub from mixing.

I see why some guys just go ahead and buy the m audio subs. I went to an audio place today, and the installer recomended a small bandpass box with 1 or 2 10's and ports coming from the top of the box firing through the rear deck. He said its not wise to cut anything bigger than maybe a 6" hole in the rear deck because its some kind of brace for the car's chasis. A bandpass box is huge, you would loose a lot of trunk with one of those! I would suggest, since you already have the basslink installed, to cut the holes in the deck and see if that makes it any better.

If it does, then you are done, and it was free! Determine the best mounting location for you because if you ask three experts what they think , you will get three different answers. Mainly be careful not to drill through anything dangerous. Choose a mounting location that doesn't interfere with your cd changer, spare tire, battery, fold down seats or trunk lid.

The most difficult part of this project is making a decision on where to mount your subwoofer. Think it through. Determine which wiring application you want to use.

I selected Figure 9. BassLink audio connections for a head unit equipped with four speaker-level outputs from the installation manual. I made this decision based on tapping only the 12 Pin connector shown in this diagram versus hacking into both connectors for speaker level output.

If you want line level output you will need to tap into the 26 pin connector. Now having said that, line level is usually my preferred choice but since we're dealing with a Class D amp and low frequencies I opted for speaker level and less hassel. Note: The main wiring harness is held on with slip tie wraps, just pull forward toward you and lift up.

The tie wrap should open right up then move the harness forward for easier access. Check out this web site for more audio details and wire routing guidelines: Wiring. Tap-In Squeeze Connectors. I prefer to use this wiring diagram and color code for any "tapping" work.

All you need to do here is "tap-in" the proper connections from your subwoofer illustrated in Figure 9.